When it comes to really
escaping the hustle and bustle of daily life there's no better place than a
spot far from where the pavement and power lines end. One such place is in a
corner of Hancock County that's so remote it doesn't even have a name, just a
number, – T3 ND.
That's where you'll find
Nicatous Lodge at the north end of Nicatous Lake. For more than 50 years, the
lodge and cabins have been a home base to a mix of visitors that can include
fishermen, paddlers, hikers, hunters, ATV riders and snowmobilers. And many
folks like to do nothing at all. Head down to the screened gazebo at the shore
with a good book and see how fast the afternoon disappears.
The Native American name for
the lake is Kiasobeak, which means "Clear Water Lake." With just a
handful of private camps on the edges, the lake boasts some 34 miles of
shoreline, numerous sandy beaches, and 76 islands devoid of evidence of human
occupation.
Some 22,000 acres of the
surrounding forest is now a preserve that allows rustic camping at established
sites.
Established as a camp for
boys in 1928, the lodge today features the authentic log main building containing
a spacious lobby, small library, the dinning room and restaurant-quality kitchen.
Out front, a broad porch sports views miles down the lake. A large field stone
fireplace is the building's centerpiece. There are several guest rooms located
on the second level.
Out front are the docks that
service fishing boats (bring your own or you can rent one or arrange for a
guide), a handful of small pleasure craft, and the lodge's fleet of canoes,
kayaks, a sunfish sailboat (free for use by guests) and the swimming beach and
float.
Surrounding the main lodge and
nestled in the trees are nine housekeeping cabins, in a variety of
configurations.
Most overlook the rushing
waters of Nicatous Stream which arcs around the camp in a broad, sweeping curve
where trophy trout can often be coaxed from a cool, deep eddy.
The decor is a unique blend
of one part estate sale and another part L.L. Bean – with a pinch of grandma's
attic. The floors creak and you can see all the pipes in the bathroom(the
better to keep them from freezing in winter). Winter woodstoves are removed by
summer so that the fireplaces can function.
In the cupboards are coffee
cups that don't match and pots and pans that didn't begin life as part of an
expensive set. What you will discover is that the sheets are crisp and clean,
the blankets warm and anything you prepare in one of their vintage cast iron
frying pans will be delicious – in short, utility and authenticity. There are
no radios or televisions in the cabins although there is a satellite dish in
the lodge.
When it comes to nightlife
you'll have to settle for the calls of barded owls, the breeze whispering in
the tall pines overhead and the haunting cries of loons out on the lake.
Be forewarned, however. The
one thing you won't find anywhere, no matter how hard you look – is pretention.
Folks renting cabins can do
their own cooking, although meals can be taken in the dining room which is also
open to the public at various times of year. Electricity is provided by the
camp's quiet generators that also charge a giant battery bank so no motors can
be heard running at night or at times during the day.
While there are plenty of comforts
at Nicatous Lodge, it's what they don't charge for that folks value the most.
Waves lapping at the shore are the traditional way of marking time. Peace and
solitude abound as sunlight filters through ancient pines to dance and play on
the ground. At night, the brilliant arc of the Milky Way high overhead is the
only bright light you'll see.
Cell phone service is spotty
at best. But, for those who can't stand being off line for too long there's
free wifi in the lodge.
The only guaranteed
connection you'll find at Nicatous Lodge, however, will be with mother nature.
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